Viniou Reviews
Domaine des Comtes Lafon is one of the most distinguished names in Burgundy, particularly famed for its exceptional white wines. The 1988 vintage from this legendary producer, though the precise vineyard is not specified, is most likely crafted from Chardonnay, as is customary in Burgundy’s premier cuvées. The winemaking philosophy at Comtes Lafon gravitated even in the late 1980s towards minimal intervention, extended lees contact and careful use of oak, resulting in wines of remarkable texture and depth. Given its Premier Cru status, this bottle promises a wine from a superior parcel, likely to reflect superb concentration, minerality and seductive aromatic complexity. After several decades in bottle, you can expect developed notes of hazelnut, dried citrus peel, baked apple, honeycomb, and possibly a gentle touch of truffle and toast, held together by a vibrant, balancing acidity that is a hallmark of great mature white Burgundy.
Burgundy sits in France’s cool continental heartland, where the interplay between limestone-rich soils and temperate climate allows Chardonnay to express itself in myriad, subtle ways. Over centuries, this region has been meticulously parcelled into climats, each yielding wines of subtly distinct personality. The stony, mineral soils, coupled with measured rainfall and a long, gentle ripening season, produce whites that are as structured and age-worthy as they are elegant. Burgundy’s tradition of excellence is as much about a passion for terroir as it is about meticulous viticulture and sensitive winemaking.
To best accompany this gracefully matured wine, consider classic French dishes that won’t overwhelm its delicacy. A seared scallop risotto, roasted turbot with beurre blanc, or a succulent Bresse chicken with morel cream sauce would make sublime pairings. For a tempting local touch, try a simple oeufs en meurette or a Comté souffle, both of which harmonise beautifully with such a nuanced wine. Mature white Burgundy can also shine alongside earthy mushroom dishes or a rich roast quail.
Serve this wine at around 12–14°C, which will gently unfurl its complexity while preserving its freshness. Decanting for twenty minutes can further encourage it to open, revealing the full tapestry of tertiary aromas and textures that only time can provide. Pour into a generous tulip-shaped glass to truly savour the legacy of Burgundy’s chardonnay at its mature peak.
