Wines Rheinhessen Keller - von der Fels - 2020

Viniou Reviews

The Keller “von der Fels” 2020 is a dry white cuvée from the renowned Rheinhessen estate, regarded as one of the top producers in Germany. Composed primarily of Riesling sourced from younger vines in some of their Grand Cru sites, “von der Fels” is often seen as a window into Keller’s illustrious style. The 2020 vintage benefited from a warm but balanced growing season, resulting in wines of great purity and tension. The meticulous vineyard work and spontaneous, slow fermentation in large, old oak casks highlight both the crystalline fruit and the subtle mineral nuances unique to the Keller terroirs.

Rheinhessen is Germany’s largest winegrowing region, located in the gently rolling hills south of Mainz. Historically known for quantity, it has in recent decades transformed into a centre of innovation and quality, spearheaded by estates like Keller. The soils here are varied, with limestone, loess, and marl particularly prominent, lending a distinctive character to the wines: often a marked minerality, bright acids, and complex citrus and stone fruit aromas. Rheinhessen enjoys a relatively warm, dry climate by German standards, which allows for full ripening of the grapes while preserving freshness.

This crisp, dry Riesling is extremely versatile at the table. It excels with Asian cuisine – think Thai green curry or sushi – as the wine’s precision and acidity beautifully offset aromatic spices and delicate flavours. Closer to home, it’s a superb match for classic German fare such as trout with herb butter or lightly dressed white asparagus, a seasonal specialty. Shellfish, grilled fish, or a citrus-dressed salad with goat’s cheese are also excellent companions.

For optimal enjoyment, serve the Keller “von der Fels” 2020 well-chilled, ideally between 8-10°C. Open the bottle shortly before serving to allow it to express its full aromatic spectrum. This wine can be enjoyed now for its vibrancy but will also develop complexity over the coming 5-8 years.