Wines Rheinhessen Keller - von der Fels - 2024

Viniou Reviews

Keller’s “Von der Fels” cuvée from the Rheinhessen, vintage 2024, is a benchmark dry white wine that beautifully showcases the pedigree of one of Germany’s most celebrated estates. Crafted predominantly from Riesling grapes, with several parcels coming from grand cru vineyards, this wine benefits from meticulous hand selection and minimal intervention in the cellar. Fermentation takes place with native yeasts in large, traditional oak vessels, fostering expressive aromatics and nuanced texture. The 2024 vintage, shaped by a cooler growing season with good diurnal shifts, promises freshness and precise minerality.

Rheinhessen, situated on gentle rolling hills between Mainz and Worms, is Germany’s largest wine region, historically known for its fertile loess and clay-limestone soils. Its proximity to the Rhine River moderates temperature extremes, encouraging a long, slow ripening period that favours the development of expressive aromatics and well-structured acidity in whites. Though Rheinhessen once carried a reputation for modest bulk wines, the past three decades have seen a dramatic renaissance, spearheaded by innovative growers like Keller. The region now produces some of Germany’s most sought-after dry Rieslings, wines of both elegance and substance.

Keller’s “Von der Fels” Riesling is a versatile partner at the table. Its vivid acidity and stony backbone make it a natural companion to seafood, particularly sashimi, scallop ceviche or trout with lemon beurre blanc. Its subtle fruit and herbal notes are well matched by simple poultry dishes like roast chicken with tarragon or a classic schnitzel with lemon. For a regional pairing, consider pairing it with Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart) or a plate of mild Münster cheese, both highlighting the wine’s freshness and minerality.

For optimal enjoyment, serve this wine at 8-10°C. Decanting for 20-30 minutes can help reveal its full aromatic palette, especially in its youth. Enjoy within the next three to five years, though the “Von der Fels” from top vintages is known to reward short-term cellaring.