Viniou Reviews
The 1989 Meursault Charmes Premier Cru from Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a truly remarkable expression of Burgundy’s Chardonnay, crafted by one of the most revered estates in the region. Coming from the distinguished Charmes climat, this wine epitomises the richness and complexity associated with old-vine Chardonnay grown on prime limestone and marl soils. The 1989 vintage, harvested in a warm year, endows the wine with ripe, generous fruit, underpinned by a remarkable freshness even after decades of ageing. The traditional vinification, involving fermentation and maturation in oak barrels, has imparted subtle toasted notes and a creamy texture, without overpowering the wine’s intrinsic minerality.
Meursault is nestled in the heart of the Côte de Beaune and is world-renowned for its opulent yet refined white wines. The region benefits from a temperate continental climate, with warm summers and relatively cool nights, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and develop nuanced aromas. The hillside vineyards here, notably in Charmes, are blessed with well-draining soils of limestone, marl, and clay, which contribute to the wine’s celebrated balance between fruit, acidity, and depth. With a winemaking history dating back centuries, Meursault and the Comtes Lafon estate continue to set the benchmark for white Burgundy.
This mature Meursault Charmes Premier Cru makes a superb partner for richly flavoured dishes. Classic pairings include pan-seared scallops with a beurre blanc, roast lobster, or grilled turbot. For a regional touch, consider poulet de Bresse aux morilles or an aged Comté cheese. The wine’s weight and complexity can also enhance simple dishes such as creamy mushroom risotto or veal in a white wine sauce.
For optimal enjoyment, serve this wine at a cool 12-14°C, allowing it to reveal its layered bouquet of dried fruits, toasted hazelnuts, and subtle earthy undertones. Decanting for 20-30 minutes before tasting is also recommended to awaken the full complexity of this superb vintage.
