Wines Wachau DAC Franz Hirtzberger - Riesling Steinterrassen, Federspiel - 2019

Viniou Reviews

Franz Hirtzberger's 2019 Cuvée Riesling Steinterrassen Federspiel from the Wachau DAC epitomises the balance and energy characteristic of Austria's premier Rieslings. This vineyard, under the meticulous care of the Hirtzberger family, produces wines renowned for their clarity and expressive mineral backbone. Crafted from perfectly ripe Riesling grapes, the wine displays a crystalline pale gold hue. The “Federspiel” designation refers to a mid-level ripeness, ensuring freshness, precision and a moderate alcohol content. On the nose, expect vibrant aromas of lime zest, white peach, subtle herbs and a stony, flinty minerality evocative of river stones. The palate is taut and lively, with racy acidity that bolsters flavours of green apple, grapefruit and a hint of white florals, finishing long with a whisper of salinity and wet stone.

The Wachau valley, located in Niederösterreich, is a UNESCO World Heritage site celebrated for its dramatic landscape, steep terraced vineyards and unique microclimate created by the Danube River. The region’s primary soils—gneiss, schist, and alluvial deposits—help accentuate the minerality and finesse in its Riesling wines. Long days, cool nights, and the moderating effect of the river allow grapes to ripen slowly, developing aromatic complexity while retaining a lively, invigorating acidity. The deep-rooted tradition of quality, combined with modern precision, has made Wachau a benchmark for dry Riesling globally.

A wine of this freshness and precision works beautifully with a range of dishes. Consider pairing it with freshwater fish such as char or trout, simply grilled or served in a light herb sauce, to highlight the wine’s zesty lift. It is equally at home alongside Asian cuisine—think Vietnamese summer rolls or Thai green curry—where its acidity and purity complement herbs, spices and delicate seafood. Traditional Austrian fare, such as Wiener schnitzel with a lemon wedge, makes for a classic regional partnership.

For optimal enjoyment, serve this Riesling at 8-10°C to preserve its aromatic vibrancy and razor-sharp freshness. Use clear, tulip-shaped glasses to direct the delicate bouquet and allow the wine to open gracefully in the glass. This 2019 Federspiel can be appreciated now for its youthful energy or cellared for a few more years to gain further complexity.