Viniou Reviews
The 2017 Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva from Produttori del Barbaresco is a striking example of Piedmont’s benchmark Nebbiolo expression. This wine comes from the famed Rabajà cru, one of Barbaresco’s most celebrated vineyards, known for producing deeply complex and age-worthy reds. Made exclusively from 100% Nebbiolo grapes, the 2017 vintage experienced a warm, sunny season, giving wines of impressive structure, plush tannins, and charming concentration. Fermentation typically involves long maceration to extract robust tannic structure and aromatic depth, followed by extended maturation in large oak botti – a classic method emphasising harmony and subtlety over overt oak influence.
Barbaresco, located in the heart of Piedmont’s Langhe hills, shares much with its neighbour Barolo but is often considered more graceful and accessible earlier in its life. The region delights in clay-limestone soils that lend both power and finesse, while the relatively mild, continental climate ensures depth of flavour and excellent ageing potential. The Rabajà vineyard’s south-west facing slopes guarantee optimal sunlight, further enhancing aromatic complexity and ripe yet fresh profiles. Piedmont’s longstanding history of small producer co-operatives, with Produttori del Barbaresco being among the finest, lends the wines exceptional consistency and a sense of place.
When it comes to food pairing, Nebbiolo’s inherent acidity and firm tannins make it an ideal partner for robust, flavourful dishes. Classic Piedmontese pairings such as brasato al Barolo (wine-braised beef), tajarin al tartufo (egg pasta with white truffle), or agnolotti del plin (stuffed pasta with meat) allow the wine’s complexity to shine. The earthy notes in the wine also complement wild mushroom risotto or aged cheeses like Castelmagno or Parmigiano Reggiano.
To fully appreciate the nuance and power of this Barbaresco, serve at 16-18°C, ideally after an hour in a decanter, which will help the wine’s floral, cherry, and earthy notes emerge. This 2017 vintage is impressive now but promises further rewards with a few more years of cellaring.
