Viniou Reviews
Keller’s 2016 Hubacker Riesling from Rheinhessen is a stunning display of German craftsmanship in winemaking. This white wine centres on the Riesling grape, expressing all its finesse and clarity from the famous Hubacker vineyard in Dalsheim—an acclaimed single site known for yielding wines with energy and precision. The vintage 2016 is marked by a vibrant acidity and aromatic complexity, attributed to a growing season that avoided excessive heat yet maintained optimal ripeness. The vinification at Keller is meticulous: grapes are hand-harvested, often at the point of perfect physiological maturity, then gently pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts, allowing the purest expression of vineyard and vintage.
Rheinhessen, Germany’s largest wine region, has been transformed in the last decades, especially by producers like Keller. The region enjoys a mild, relatively dry climate with ample sunshine, moderated by rolling hills and the Rhine River. The soils of the Hubacker are predominantly limestone with clay marl, which is especially conducive to Riesling, fostering minerality and longevity in the wines. Historically, Rheinhessen was dominated by bulk production, but a new generation of growers has elevated quality rapidly, with a focus on dry Rieslings like this one that now compete with Germany’s best.
On the table, the structured yet refined style of the 2016 Hubacker Riesling makes it exceptionally versatile. Its mineral backbone and citrus vivacity pair beautifully with freshwater fish such as trout or zander, especially when prepared simply, perhaps with a light herb sauce. The wine’s acidity and subtle floral notes also work wonderfully with poultry dishes—try roasted chicken with tarragon—or with regional specialties like Tafelspitz or mild goat’s cheese. For a local touch, a crisp onion tart from Rheinhessen or even Asian-inspired cuisine like sushi highlights the wine’s purity.
When serving, chill the wine to 8-10°C to accentuate its delicacy and aromatic lift. Decanting can benefit the wine, helping it release more of its characteristic flinty-mineral nose and giving the palate additional depth. Enjoy over the next decade for evolving complexity.
