Viniou Reviews
Keller’s 2015 Hubacker from Rheinhessen is a benchmark dry Riesling that truly demonstrates the elegance and precision for which this estate is renowned. Crafted entirely from Riesling grapes grown in the celebrated Hubacker vineyard, the wine reflects the exceptional qualities of this Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) site. The 2015 vintage is remembered for its balance—there was warmth and sufficient ripeness, but also enough freshness to preserve acidity. After a meticulous harvest by hand, vinification at Keller is driven by a low-intervention philosophy; spontaneous fermentation and extended lees contact are used to enhance texture and complexity, resulting in a dry, mineral-driven style.
Rheinhessen, located in southwest Germany, is the country’s largest wine-growing region. The Hubacker vineyard lies near the village of Flörsheim-Dalsheim and is characterised by its unique terroir. The soils here are mainly limestone with patches of clay, contributing to the marked minerality, tension, and depth in the finished wines. The region itself has a mild climate, due in part to shelter from surrounding hills, which allows for the slow, even ripening of grapes, yielding wines of remarkable finesse and nuance. While Rheinhessen once had a reputation for bulk production, top estates like Keller have propelled it to the forefront with meticulously crafted, terroir-expressive wines.
This dry Riesling pairs beautifully with refined, delicately flavoured dishes. Its vibrant acidity and structure make it a wonderful match for seafood such as grilled sea bass, scallops, or sashimi. The wine’s minerality and citrus notes also complement poultry, especially dishes cooked with a cream or lemon sauce. For a regional pairing, try it with German classics like Zander (pike-perch) in Riesling sauce or an asparagus salad with new potatoes. It will also hold its own alongside soft, subtle cheeses such as young goat’s cheese.
For the optimal tasting experience, serve this Keller Hubacker at 10-12°C. Decanting for thirty minutes can help reveal the wine’s intricate layers and aromatic clarity. This wine will also reward further cellaring, with potential to evolve beautifully over the next decade.
