Wines Abona Veronica ortega - Godello - 2021

Viniou Reviews

Veronica Ortega's 2021 Cuvée Godello is a fascinating expression of the Godello grape, a varietal famed for its subtlety and elegance. The wine comes from the Abona DO in the Canary Islands, where volcanic soils impart both depth and minerality. The Atlantic-influenced climate, with its significant diurnal temperature variations, allows the Godello grapes to preserve their natural acidity while achieving full aromatic ripeness. Typically, winemaking here is hands-off, favouring spontaneous fermentations and minimal intervention, which allows the distinctive character of both grape and terroir to come through, resulting in a dry, vibrant white with layered complexity.

The Canary Islands, and especially the Abona region on Tenerife, have a dramatic viticultural history. Vines are grown on volcanic slopes, often at high elevation, some above the clouds, where they are shaped by both history and the unique local climate. The soils are a mixture of black volcanic ash and sand, providing not only natural phylloxera resistance but also yielding wines of pronounced minerality. Centuries of isolation have fostered the preservation of rare native varieties such as Godello, and the region is renowned for its combination of Atlantic freshness, distinctive saline notes, and remarkable longevity in white wines.

Thanks to its crisp acidity, mineral backbone, and refined texture, this Godello pairs excellently with seafood, especially dishes such as grilled octopus or salt-baked fish, which highlight the saline qualities of the wine. For local flair, consider pairing it with 'papas arrugadas' (wrinkled potatoes) and mojo verde, or a plate of fresh goats’ cheese. The wine's nuanced aromatics of citrus, white flowers, and stone fruit also marry beautifully with Japanese cuisine, notably sashimi or tempura prawns.

For optimal enjoyment, serve this cuvée chilled but not overly cold, ideally between 8 and 10°C. Decanting is not required, but allowing the wine a few minutes in the glass will help open up its delicate aromatics and textured palate. Enjoy young to capture its vibrancy, or cellar for a year or two for extra complexity.