Wines Madeira H.M. Borges - Sercial - 1984

Viniou Reviews

H.M. Borges 1984 Cuvée Sercial is an exceptional vintage from the renowned Madeira DOC, located on the volcanic island of Madeira, Portugal. This particular wine is made from the Sercial grape, which is famed for producing the driest style of Madeira. The 1984 vintage signals a significant level of maturation, developing complex tertiary flavours and aromas over the decades. Winemaking for Sercial typically involves fortification, where grape spirits are added to halt fermentation, preserving natural acidity and enabling extraordinary aging potential. The wine undergoes the traditional 'estufagem' or 'canteiro' processes, which expose it to heat and oxygen, facilitating gradual caramelisation and the development of nutty, citrus, and dried fruit notes while enhancing its distinctive tangy finish.

The Madeira region boasts a unique viticultural environment owing to its subtropical climate and steep, terraced terrain with volcanic soils. This, combined with Atlantic breezes and a history stretching back to the Age of Discovery, has bred wines of remarkable resilience and complexity. The microclimate variations depend heavily on altitude and exposure, particularly benefiting high-acidity grapes such as Sercial. Historically, Madeira was prized in European courts and American colonies alike, famed for its ability to travel long distances without spoilage, thanks to the fortification and oxidation techniques still used today.

Given its dryness and vitality, this mature Sercial Madeira pairs superbly with a broad range of gastronomic delights. Classic matches include salted almonds, hard cheeses such as aged Manchego or Pecorino, and seafood dishes—particularly grilled octopus or bacalhau à Brás, a nod to its Atlantic Portuguese roots. It can also offset the richness of a lobster bisque or mushroom risotto. For a local taste, consider pairing with bolo do caco, a traditional Madeiran bread, served with garlic butter or robust olive tapenade.

To best appreciate the depth and aromatic complexity of this 1984 Sercial, serve it slightly chilled, at around 12-14°C. Decanting is not necessary, but allowing it to breathe in the glass will help it reveal its intricate bouquet of citrus peel, toasted nuts, and subtle spice. Enjoy in small tulip-shaped glasses to concentrate its elegant perfume.