Wines Moscato di Pantelleria Donnafugata - Ben Ryé - 2020

Viniou Reviews

Ben Ryé 2020 from Donnafugata is one of Sicily’s most celebrated sweet wines, hailing from the island of Pantelleria, a remote jewel midway between Sicily and Tunisia. This Moscato di Pantelleria DOC is crafted from the indigenous Zibibbo grape (also known as Muscat of Alexandria), renowned for its aromatic intensity and natural sugar levels. Each grape is hand-harvested from old vines rooted in volcanic soils, and the unique winemaking involves the ancient passito method: air-drying part of the harvest under the Mediterranean sun to concentrate the flavours, before macerating those semi-raisined grapes in fresh must to create exceptional sweetness and aromatic complexity. The 2020 vintage, marked by balanced climatic conditions, exhibits a shimmering golden hue and a highly expressive bouquet of apricot, candied orange peel, dried figs, honey, and sweet Mediterranean herbs.

Pantelleria is itself a mosaic of stark, wind-swept volcanic slopes, meticulously terraced and dotted with low bush vines grown in sunken hollows to shield from gales. The island’s mineral-rich, well-drained soils and intense summer sun combine with significant temperature swings to concentrate both sugars and aromas in the grapes, resulting in lusciously powerful yet balanced wines. The history of winemaking here stretches back thousands of years, and the Zibibbo grape, originally introduced by Arab settlers, remains the island’s aromatic signature.

Such a richly sweet and aromatic wine is gorgeous as an accompaniment to Sicilian desserts like cassata or almond pastries, but also shines with blue cheeses such as gorgonzola for a striking sweet-savoury contrast. For a more adventurous pairing, try Ben Ryé with foie gras, or even spicy Asian cuisine where the wine’s residual sugar matches the heat. Panettone and fruit tarts are also delightful companions.

For optimum enjoyment and to let its intricate aromatics blossom, serve Ben Ryé 2020 cool, ideally between 12-14°C. A medium-sized white wine glass will allow the bouquet room to expand, and this wine will evolve beautifully in the glass over the course of an evening.