Wines Lessona Roagna - Montemarzino Derthona - 2020

Viniou Reviews

Roagna's Cuvée Montemarzino Derthona 2020 is a rare white expression from a Piedmontese estate more often celebrated for its reds. This wine is produced in the Lessona appellation, a lesser-known but intriguing corner of northern Piedmont. The cuvée is composed predominantly of the Timorasso grape, an indigenous variety revived in recent decades for its complexity and ageing potential. Timorasso is known for its structure, refreshing acidity, and pronounced minerality, delivering a compelling aromatic profile of white peach, acacia blossom, hints of honey, and a characteristic almond finish. The 2020 vintage is adorned with finesse due to a cool, balanced growing season, resulting in precise fruit and a healthy vibrancy. Vinification typically follows minimal intervention, with fermentation in stainless steel or neutral vessels to safeguard the variety’s aromatic purity and structure, often with extended lees ageing to develop depth and texture.

The Lessona region, located in the hills of Upper Piedmont, benefits from a cool continental climate with significant diurnal temperature swings, enhancing aromatic complexity and preserving acidity in its wines. The soils here are notably sandy and acidic, formed from ancient marine sediments; this unique terroir contributes to the wine’s pronounced mineral backbone and elegance. Though Lessona rose to prominence in the 19th century—once rivalling Barolo—its reputation waned before a modern renaissance, particularly for authentic, terroir-driven wines from small estates like Roagna.

This Timorasso-driven white pairs beautifully with an array of culinary options. Its lively acidity and mineral notes make it an ideal partner for rich seafood dishes such as seared scallops, grilled langoustines, or even a saffron-infused seafood risotto. For local harmony, try it with Piedmontese tajarin pasta tossed with butter and hazelnuts, or with a plate of delicate veal carpaccio drizzled in lemon and olive oil, drawing out the wine’s aromatic subtleties.

For optimal enjoyment, serve Cuvée Montemarzino Derthona 2020 at a temperature between 10-12°C. Allow it a few minutes in the glass to open up its expansive aromatics, and consider decanting if you wish to explore its greater depth. This wine will also evolve gracefully in bottle, rewarding those patient enough to set a few aside.