Wines Tokaj-Hegyalja Puklus Pincészet - Aszú Puttonyos - 2017

Viniou Reviews

Puklus Pincészet’s 2017 Tokaj-Hegyalja Aszú Puttonyos is a remarkable sweet white wine hailing from the historic Tokaj region in Hungary. This cuvée Aszú, distinguished by the “Puttonyos” indication on its label, is crafted from carefully selected, late-harvested native grape varieties—primarily Furmint, Hárslevelű, and occasionally Sárgamuskotály (Muscat Blanc). The “Puttonyos” system denotes sweetness and complexity, with higher numbers signifying greater concentration of botrytised (noble rot) grapes. The 2017 vintage benefits from optimal harvest conditions, producing luscious nectars layered with honey, dried apricot, orange peel, and gentle spice, underscored by fresh acidity that balances the wine’s opulence. The traditional vinification involves macerating hand-picked, botrytised berries in fermenting base wine, yielding richness and depth after extensive ageing in oak barrels.

The Tokaj region, inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is synonymous with legendary dessert wines. Its unique climate—characterised by warm days, cool nights, and autumn mists funnelled by the Bodrog and Tisza rivers—encourages the development of Botrytis cinerea, the “noble rot” vital to Tokaji Aszú’s character. Volcanic soils, interspersed with loess and clay, impart a striking minerality and longevity to the wines. Tokaj's noble sweet styles have graced the tables of royalty across Europe since the 17th century, marking it as one of the world’s oldest classified wine regions.

This Aszú Puttonyos shines alongside blue-veined cheeses like Roquefort or Stilton, or Hungarian classics such as mákos guba (poppy seed bread pudding). It’s sublime with foie gras, duck liver terrine, or simply alongside spiced poached pears and apricot tart, where its vibrant acidity cuts through the richness of the dishes. For a regional adventure, try it with goose liver pâté or a selection of dried fruits and nuts.

Serve well chilled, ideally between 10-12°C, in gently tapered dessert wine glasses to best capture its aromas. Allowing the wine to breathe for a few minutes before tasting will enhance its bouquet, providing a perfect balance of sweetness, freshness, and a lingering, elegant finish.