Wines Unspecified Seehof - Alte Reben Morstein - 2021

Viniou Reviews

Seehof’s 2021 Cuvée Alte Reben Morstein is a notable dry white from Rheinhessen, a region recognised for its renewed dynamism and a focus on quality viticulture. The designation “Alte Reben” signals old vines, which typically deliver lower yields but outstanding concentration and complexity in the fruit. The Morstein vineyard is among Rheinhessen’s most esteemed sites, boasting limestone-rich soils that impart minerality and tension to the wines. Though cuvée suggests a blend, in this context it often references the careful selection of the best plots or parcels, likely Riesling-dominant, though some producers might thoughtfully integrate other traditional white varietals. The 2021 vintage was relatively cool, gifting the wines with verve, aromatic finesse, and beautifully balanced acidity. Gentle pressing and slow fermentation, commonly in stainless steel, are preferred to showcase the wine’s purity and the distinctive character of the terroir.

Rheinhessen, historically known for quantity rather than pedigree, has seen a revolution over recent decades, led by quality-minded winemakers. The landscape is gently rolling, and the region is both sheltered and sunlit, encouraging optimal ripening without excessive heat. The profound limestone and marl soils of Morstein contribute to the wine’s notable structure, freshness, and a signature saline edge. The region’s legacy of winegrowing dates back to Roman times, but it is the recent emergence of ambitious estates like Seehof that has truly propelled Rheinhessen into the limelight of German fine wine.

Pair this wine with dishes that echo its energy and play to its strengths: delicate, subtly flavoured fish such as poached trout with a herb vinaigrette, or roast pikeperch with fennel. The marked minerality and lift make it exceptional with shellfish, including oysters or scallops, and it finds a classic partner in fine German charcuterie or a vibrant salad of white asparagus when in season. For a regional touch, serve it with “Handkäs mit Musik”, a tangy local cheese marinated with onions and vinegar.

To fully appreciate its aromatic complexity and precision, serve this dry white at 8-10°C. A large, tulip-shaped glass will help express the wine’s subtle nose and emphasise its dynamic, chalky length. If you wish to cellar, the strong structure of the Morstein and the freshness of 2021 promises several years’ graceful evolution.