Viniou Reviews
Domaine Gondard-Perrin’s 2023 Viré-Clessé ‘Cuvée En Combe’ is a dry white Burgundy showcasing the expressive character of Chardonnay from the southernmost reaches of Bourgogne. Crafted exclusively from Chardonnay grapes, this cuvée benefits from a meticulous approach in both vineyard and cellar. The 2023 vintage is notable for its freshness and aromatics, shaped by a harmonious growing season with moderate temperatures and sufficient rainfall. The terroir of Viré-Clessé, with its gentle slopes and clay-limestone soils, imparts a distinct mineral backbone to the wine, complemented by delicate hints of citrus, white flowers and orchard fruits. The vinification typically involves gentle pressing and fermentation in stainless steel or cement vats, preserving the purity of fruit and vibrant acidity that are the hallmarks of the appellation.
The Maconnais region, nestled between the Côte Chalonnaise and Beaujolais, is renowned for its rolling landscapes and warmer microclimate compared to northern Bourgogne. This results in riper fruit profiles and a welcoming richness in the wines, while maintaining the precision and clarity characteristic of Burgundy whites. The soils here, predominantly limestone with pockets of marl and clay, are ideal for Chardonnay, providing both structure and finesse. The Viré-Clessé AOC itself, established relatively recently in 1999, represents the union of two villages and stands as the southernmost appellation for white Burgundy of pure Chardonnay, continuing a tradition of excellence and innovation.
This Viré-Clessé is particularly versatile at the table. Its bright acidity and subtle minerality pair beautifully with delicate starters such as goat cheese salads, seafood platters, or marinated prawns. For a regional touch, serve with poulet de Bresse à la crème, where the creaminess of the sauce finds a harmonious partner in the wine’s freshness. Risottos with spring vegetables or baked fish en papillote also make excellent companions.
For optimal appreciation, serve this wine chilled but not too cold, ideally at 10-12°C. Decanting is generally unnecessary but giving the wine a few minutes in the glass allows its expressive bouquet to unfold fully. Enjoy while youthful for its vivacity, though a couple of years in the cellar will bring added depth and complexity.
