Viniou Reviews
Château S Rontets’ 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Varambon is a beautiful expression of Chardonnay from the southern reaches of Burgundy. The Clos Varambon cuvée hails from a walled vineyard surrounding the château, combining deep clay-limestone soils with old vines averaging around 40 years of age. The 2023 vintage reflects an ideal growing season, allowing the grapes to reach optimal ripeness while retaining their signature freshness. As an organically certified wine, care is lavished on both the vines and the vinification process—manual harvests, indigenous yeast fermentation, and careful ageing (likely partly in oak) allow the complexities of the terroir to shine. In the glass, expect aromas of ripe orchard fruit, white peach, and subtle floral notes, delicately interwoven with hints of hazelnut and a suggestion of minerality characteristic of great Pouilly-Fuissé.
The Mâconnais, situated in southern Burgundy, enjoys a slightly warmer climate than the Côte d’Or, resulting in more generous and expressive styles of Chardonnay. The region’s gently rolling hills are rich in limestone, the very bedrock that imparts elegance and tension to the wines. Pouilly-Fuissé, with its mosaic of soils—marl, clay, and limestone—has long enjoyed a reputation as the pinnacle of the Mâconnais, with a history stretching back to the 19th century. Today, a new generation of growers, such as those at Château S Rontets, combine tradition with sustainable, organic practices to elevate the wines even further.
A Pouilly-Fuissé of this calibre deserves to be paired thoughtfully. Its vibrant acidity and creamy texture make it a wonderful match for fine seafood such as scallops in beurre blanc sauce, grilled turbot, or crayfish. Regional classics like poulet de Bresse à la crème or mild goat’s cheese from Mâcon also work beautifully, highlighting both the depth and finesse of the wine.
For optimal enjoyment, serve this Pouilly-Fuissé at around 10-12°C. A brief decanting is worthwhile, especially while young, to allow the bouquet to open and reveal its layered character. This wine will continue to evolve gracefully in bottle for several years, rewarding a little patience in your cellar.
