Wines Marsannay Samalens - Réserve - 1978

This Marsannay Cuvée Réserve Rouge 1978 from Domaine Samalens is a notable bottle from one of Burgundy’s northernmost appellations, situated within the revered Côte de Nuits. While Pinot Noir is almost certainly the principal grape, as is tradition in Marsannay reds, it is worth noting that, given the era and labelling conventions, minor blending or vineyard variation is possible. This 1978 vintage, now over four decades old, represents a profound piece of history, offering a window into the slow evolution of Burgundy’s expressive terroir-driven wines.

Marsannay, sitting just to the south of Dijon, is distinct for its combination of clay-limestone and gravel soils, which lend delicacy and minerality to its wines. The region’s relatively cool continental climate brings freshness and tension, whilst the aspect of its vineyards allows for optimal ripening even in cooler years. Tradition in winemaking here leans towards gentle extraction and élevage in old Burgundy barrels, highlighting the interplay between fruit and savoury complexity that comes with bottle age.

For food pairing, such an old Marsannay calls for delicacy and harmony rather than robust flavours. Classic dishes from Burgundy such as poultry in morel mushroom sauce (poulet aux morilles) or a tender rabbit with Dijon mustard would be excellent matches, complementing the subtle tertiary, earthy notes of mature Pinot Noir. A simple roast chicken, mushroom risotto, or aged French cheeses like Comté or Saint-Nectaire also work beautifully, allowing the secondary flavours of truffle, sous-bois, and faded red fruit to emerge.

Given its age, this wine should be handled with care and allowed ample time to breathe after gently decanting to remove sediment. Serve slightly chilled at 16-18°C to highlight its complexity without masking nuance. Enjoy the poised elegance and ephemeral beauty that only such a mature Burgundy can provide.