Baron de Ley’s 2020 Cuvée Varietales Graciano offers an inviting glimpse into the expressive, finely structured reds of Rioja. This bottling is crafted in the classic Rioja tradition, but as a varietal wine it highlights Graciano, a grape renowned for its vibrancy, aromatic complexity and acidity. In recent years, Graciano has gained recognition for producing deeply coloured wines with lively freshness, perfumed dark fruit aromas, and a touch of spice. Vinification at Baron de Ley is typically meticulous, with a focus on preserving primary fruit and freshness, often marrying a period of oak ageing to provide subtle notes of vanilla, cedar or tobacco, depending on the house style. The 2020 vintage benefited from balanced ripening conditions, translating into well-integrated tannins and elegant structure.
Rioja, situated in northern Spain, is one of the country’s flagship regions, protected by the Sierra de Cantabria mountains to the north and the Sierra de la Demanda to the south. Its climate is a fascinating interplay of Atlantic, continental and Mediterranean influences, with the Graciano variety particularly thriving in Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental subregions where cooler conditions allow for graceful ripening. The region’s soils—a mix of limestone, clay and iron-rich ferrous matter—add notable personality and depth to the wines. Rioja long held a reputation for blended reds dominated by Tempranillo, but single-variety expressions like this reflect a return to heritage grapes and terroirs, showcasing the nuanced power and freshness that Graciano can bring.
For food pairings, this Graciano’s energetic acidity and dark berry fruit are superb alongside lamb cutlets or slow-cooked beef, especially classics from the region like Rioja-style lamb (chuletillas de cordero) or beef cheeks braised in red wine. The wine’s structure stands up well to game birds or mildly spiced dishes, while its freshness can offer a vibrant contrast to rich, manchego cheese or sautéed wild mushrooms.
To experience this wine at its best, serve at 16-18°C. Decanting for half an hour before tasting can help the wine open up, allowing its full bouquet and supple texture to emerge. Enjoy it over the next few years, when its vivid character and balance will shine.
