Wines Stellenbosch Mulderbosch - Old Vine Steen op Hout - 2022

Viniou Reviews

Mulderbosch’s 2022 Old Vine Steen op Hout is a masterful South African white wine expressing the remarkable heritage of bush vine Chenin Blanc (known locally as "Steen") from carefully selected old vineyards in Stellenbosch. Crafted by one of the Cape’s most respected estates, this cuvée reveals aromas of ripe quince, yellow apple, pear, and subtle white florals, with elegant wood undertones owing to partial maturation in seasoned oak — “op hout” referencing this gentle oak ageing. On the palate, it offers a lively tension between crisp acidity and a rounded, textural mouthfeel, all underpinned by the characteristic depth and complexity imparted by old vines.

Stellenbosch is the beating heart of South Africa’s fine wine tradition. Sheltered by the Helderberg and Stellenbosch mountains just inland from False Bay, the vineyards enjoy a temperate Mediterranean climate with cooling sea breezes that preserve freshness in the grapes. The soils—mainly weathered granite and sandstone—offer excellent drainage and restrain vigour, encouraging old vines to send deep roots in search of moisture and minerals, resulting in wines of concentration and nuance. Historically, Stellenbosch has played a crucial role in the country’s wine story, celebrated for both innovation and a deep respect for its vinous heritage, particularly with grapes like Chenin Blanc which thrive in its terroirs.

The wine’s vibrant, fruit-driven style with gentle oak makes it remarkably versatile at the table. For classic regional pairings, think of Cape Malay bobotie—spiced savoury mince with a savoury custard—or Kingklip, a local white fish, grilled with citrus and herbs. Internationally, it flourishes alongside Thai green curry, lemon-roasted chicken, creamy seafood risotto, or a goat’s cheese tart. Its natural freshness also enhances dishes featuring vibrant herbs, mildly spiced vegetables, or shellfish.

For optimum enjoyment, serve this Chenin Blanc between 8-10°C. If possible, enjoy in moderately sized white wine glasses to let its aromatics open fully. The 2022 vintage, while already inviting, should evolve gracefully over the next three to five years, gaining further honeyed and nutty notes in bottle.