Viniou Reviews
Alheit Vineyards' "Cartology" 2018 from Hemel-en-Aarde stands as a benchmark for South African white blends. Composed predominantly of bush vine Chenin Blanc with a proportion of Sémillon, this cuvée showcases the nuanced character of old vines across various heritage parcels in the Western Cape, with influences from Hemel-en-Aarde’s maritime climate. The grapes are hand-picked and fermented with native yeasts, then aged in old oak barrels to retain freshness while developing textural complexity. The wine is typically noted for its finely-woven citrus and stone fruit aromas, subtle floral and herbal nuances, and a mineral-driven palate anchored by vibrant acidity and a savoury, saline undertone.
Hemel-en-Aarde—meaning "Heaven and Earth" in Afrikaans—is highly regarded for its cool, ocean-influenced climate. The proximity to the Atlantic moderates temperatures, resulting in a long growing season and wines of elegance and restraint. The soils here are predominantly clay and shale with iron-rich content, contributing to a distinctive mineral backbone in the region’s top wines. Although renowned for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde’s contemporary producers, such as Alheit, have pushed boundaries with heritage white blends that speak to South Africa's winemaking legacy. The use of old, dry-farmed vines yields low but intensely flavoured yields, bridging the country’s historical roots and modern aspirations.
Given Cartology's complexity and vibrant acidity, it pairs beautifully with subtly spiced seafood—think line-caught Cape crayfish or seared scallops—as the wine’s citrusy freshness enlivens delicate marine flavours. Traditional South African dishes such as snoek pâté, bobotie, or even lightly curried kingklip accentuate the wine's aromatic profile. It also shines alongside creamy goat cheese, roast chicken with preserved lemon, or risotto with fresh peas and herbs.
Cartology benefits from a gentle aeration and is best served moderately chilled, ideally between 10-12°C. In its youth, it offers vivid fruit and tension, but give it a moment in the glass to allow its layers to unfurl. With cellaring, further complexity develops, rewarding patience and thoughtful enjoyment.
