Wines Barolo Elio Altare - Arborina - 2017

Viniou Reviews

Elio Altare’s Barolo DOC “Arborina” 2017 is a profound expression of the Nebbiolo grape, hailing from one of Piedmont’s most revered hillsides. The “Arborina” cuvée is celebrated for its finesse and the ageworthy qualities typical of Altare’s meticulous approach. 2017 was a warmer, drier vintage, resulting in voluptuous, ripe fruit yet anchored by Nebbiolo’s signature tannic structure and piercing acidity. The vinification here tends to embrace modern methods: shorter macerations and ageing in French oak barriques, imparting polish and subtle spice, which accentuate the cherry, rose petal, and tar notes so prized in Barolo. You’ll find layers of dried herbs, soft leather, and truffle echoing beneath a framework of refined tannins.

Barolo comes from the heart of Langhe, a UNESCO World Heritage site, in the sunny southwest of Piedmont. The region is lauded for its rolling hills, with soils rich in clay, limestone, and marl—particularly in La Morra and, notably, Arborina itself. Such terroir gifts Nebbiolo unusual elegance and complexity. The local continental climate, offering hot days and cool nights, extends the ripening season, fostering depth and aromatic complexity. Centuries of winemaking here blend tradition with innovation, a spirit exemplified in the wines of Elio Altare, who revolutionised the area with a focus on purity of fruit and balanced extraction.

Barolo’s depth and intensity call for savoury, umami-rich pairings. Think of traditional specialties such as tajarin al tartufo (egg pasta with truffles), brasato al Barolo (beef braised in Barolo), or aged Piedmontese cheeses like Castelmagno. This wine pairs brilliantly with slow-cooked lamb, mushroom risotto, or even earthy roasted root vegetables; its structure stands up handsomely to game and rich poultry like duck or guinea fowl.

For optimal enjoyment, decant the Arborina 2017 for at least two hours to allow its bouquet to unfold and tannins to soften. Serve at 17-18°C in large, tulip-shaped glasses. While already striking, this Barolo will reward cellaring—expect further complexity and tertiary notes to blossom over the next decade.