Viniou Reviews
Gaja’s 1988 Barolo “Sperss” is a legendary expression from one of Piemonte’s most acclaimed producers. Crafted exclusively from Nebbiolo, this cuvée hails from the Sperss vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, a commune renowned for producing Barolos with exceptional structure, depth, and age-worthiness. The 1988 vintage stands out as a classic year in Barolo, with balanced weather providing optimal ripening conditions for Nebbiolo’s slow-maturing grapes. Vinification at Gaja is meticulous, combining traditional long maceration with modern refinement and barrique ageing, resulting in a harmonious meld of power and finesse. With over three decades of ageing, anticipate a bouquet of dried roses, tar, liquorice, truffle, earthy notes, and ripe cherry, with tertiary aromas unfolding gracefully. The palate should show remarkable integration of tannins, refined acidity, and lingering savoury complexity—hallmarks of mature Barolo.
Piemonte’s winemaking heritage is inseparable from its rolling hills, cool foggy microclimate, and calcareous clay soils, particularly in the Langhe subregion where Barolo is king. Historical influences, from Roman times to the Savoy dynasty, have shaped its viticultural traditions, and producers like Gaja have propelled Barolo onto the global stage. The Sperss site, in particular, benefits from a southern-exposure and mineral-rich soils, imparting a distinctive power and longevity to the wines. The region’s cool continental climate, punctuated by autumn mists, enables Nebbiolo to ripen slowly and deeply develop its character.
To best complement this mature Barolo, pair it with classic Piemontese fare such as braised veal shank (ossobuco), wild mushroom risotto, or agnolotti del plin in a sage-butter sauce. Strong, aged cheeses like Castelmagno or Parmigiano-Reggiano also make an excellent match, and truffle-accented dishes (think tajarin al tartufo) will brilliantly echo the wine’s earthy undertones.
Decant gently to avoid unsettling mature sediment and allow the wine to fully open. Serve at 18°C to coax out its nuanced aromas. Given its age, savour it in large Burgundy-style glasses to enhance aeration and appreciate its extraordinary depth.
