Viniou Reviews
Roagna’s Barbaresco Montefico VV 2017 is an outstanding expression of Nebbiolo, sourced from the prestigious Montefico cru within Barbaresco. The “VV” label denotes “Vecchie Vigne”—old vines—which in this case are over 50 years old, imparting remarkable depth and complexity to the wine. The 2017 vintage was marked by an early growing season and warm summer, leading to a wine that balances maturity with the classic elegance of Barbaresco. Roagna’s traditionalist approach embraces long macerations and aging in large neutral barrels, resulting in a wine that articulates both its varietal character—vivid cherry, rose, tar, and subtle spices—and the singularity of its terroir, with a texture both refined and profound.
The Barbaresco appellation sits in the Langhe hills of Piedmont, an area celebrated for producing Nebbiolo wines of finesse and aromatic complexity. The calcareous clay soils of Montefico, combined with the rolling exposures and persistent autumn mists, create a microclimate that allows Nebbiolo to achieve its full aromatic potential while retaining ample acidity. Though neighbouring Barolo often garners more fame, Barbaresco is prized for its slightly more approachable tannic structure and delicacy in youth. Piedmont’s viticultural history is steeped in tradition, with families such as Roagna upholding artisanal methods that honour the region’s legacy.
To complement the layered structure and earthy complexity of this wine, ideal pairings include classic Piedmontese dishes such as braised beef (brasato al Barbaresco), wild mushroom risotto, or tajarin pasta with truffles. The wine’s assertive tannins and lively acidity also make it a superb match for game birds, roasted lamb, or hard regional cheeses like Castelmagno.
For optimal enjoyment, decant this Barbaresco for at least an hour to allow its bouquet to blossom. Serve at a temperature between 16 and 18°C. This will highlight both its intricate aromatics and supple tannic structure. The wine will develop further complexity with cellaring, but is already captivating for those who appreciate youthful intensity gracefully layered with minerality and floral notes.
