Viniou Reviews
Donatella Cinelli Colombini's 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a distinguished red wine from Tuscany, crafted exclusively from Sangiovese grapes, as is traditional for the Brunello di Montalcino DOC appellation. This vintage experienced a notably warm and dry growing season, which has lent the wine both concentration and an approachable structure. The vineyards are situated around Montalcino, benefitting from the area's clay-limestone soils and elevations that enhance freshness and aromatic complexity in the final wine. Ageing typically takes place in large oak casks for several years, resulting in a wine of refined tannins, pronounced cherry and plum fruit, subtle floral notes, and layers of earthy, balsamic nuances.
Tuscany, and more specifically the Montalcino zone, enjoys a Mediterranean climate marked by abundant sunshine, significant diurnal temperature shifts, and well-drained soils. This combination helps Sangiovese thrive, yielding wines that balance ripeness with vivid acidity. The Brunello di Montalcino DOC was established in 1980 but the region's winemaking history extends back centuries, with Brunello itself emerging as a benchmark for Italian fine wine. Donatella Cinelli Colombini, an esteemed producer, is particularly known for her dedication to tradition and quality, maintaining a female-led winemaking team which is quite rare in the Italian wine landscape.
Pairing this Brunello excels with classic Tuscan fare such as wild boar ragù, bistecca alla fiorentina, or simply grilled lamb with rosemary. The wine's depth and tannins find their match in rich, flavourful dishes, especially those incorporating mushrooms, truffle, or mature pecorino cheese. It also complements hearty vegetarian preparations like risotto with porcini mushrooms or a lentil stew.
For optimal enjoyment, decant the 2017 vintage at least one hour before serving to help the aromatics fully express themselves. Serve at a temperature between 16 and 18°C. This will allow you to appreciate the wine's structure, aromatic layers and graceful evolution in the glass. Such a bottle could certainly improve further with cellaring, but is already approachable and rewarding today.
