Viniou Reviews
Domaine Closel's "Les Caillardières" 2022 is a dry white wine from the esteemed Savennières AOC, located in the Anjou-Saumur subregion of the Loire Valley. Crafted entirely from Chenin Blanc, this cuvée reflects both the grape’s remarkable versatility and the precision of biodynamic viticulture practiced at the estate. In the glass, the wine presents a shimmering pale gold hue, with an aromatic profile that weaves quince, ripe pear, citrus zest, and a flourish of wildflowers, underpinned by saline mineral undertones—a signature of its terroir. The palate is vibrant and tense, boasting a harmonious balance between taut acidity and subtle creaminess, finishing with a persistent, flinty minerality.
Savennières sits along the north bank of the Loire river, benefitting from a temperate climate with maritime influences—cool summers and mild winters promote slow, even ripening of the Chenin grapes. The vineyards are rooted in ancient schist and sandstone soils, which impart a distinct stony character and remarkable longevity to the wines. This appellation, with a storied history dating back to at least the Middle Ages, is renowned today for complex, age-worthy whites that express both finesse and intensity, often attributed to the low yields and meticulous vineyard work characteristic of producers like Domaine Closel.
"Les Caillardières" shines alongside dishes that can match or complement its structure and mineral depth. Classic regional pairings include river fish such as pike perch with beurre blanc, or rillettes de saumon. Its freshness and texture also work beautifully with roasted poultry, veal in cream sauce, or mature goat cheeses from the Loire. For a vegetarian option, consider a risotto with spring vegetables, highlighting the wine’s lively acidity.
For optimal enjoyment, chill the wine to 10-12°C. This temperature allows the intricate aromatics and nuances of texture to fully reveal themselves, particularly if you open the bottle 30 minutes before serving to let it breathe. Savennières like this can age gracefully, so if you have the patience, the wine promises further complexity over the next five to ten years.
