Wines Zagorje Cmrecnjak - Mađerka Pušipel Sur Lie - 2021

Viniou Reviews

Cuvée Maderka Pušipel Sur Lie 2021 from Cmrecnjak is a dry white wine that channels both modern winemaking and regional heritage. Crafted predominantly from the Pušipel grape, better known as Furmint elsewhere in Central Europe, this wine undergoes sur lie ageing—a process where the wine matures on its fine lees, contributing extra depth and complexity. The 2021 vintage reflects a balanced year, with sufficient warmth for optimal ripening, yet enough cool nights to preserve freshness and finesse. In the glass, you can expect subtle floral notes mingled with green apple, hints of white peach and a touch of yeasty, brioche complexity from the extended lees contact. The palate balances a lively, crisp acidity with a textured, almost creamy mid-palate, culminating in a clean mineral finish.

Zagorje, the heartland of Central Croatia, is renowned for its rolling hills, patchwork vineyards, and a viticultural tradition that dates back centuries. The continental climate brings pronounced seasonal contrasts: cold winters and warm but not excessive summers, ensuring grapes maintain both flavour intensity and acidity. Soils here are predominantly clay-limestone, which provides excellent drainage and lends a distinctive minerality to the wines. The region’s proximity to the Slovenian and Hungarian borders has fostered a blending of cultural and winemaking traditions, resulting in unique expressions such as this Pušipel-focused cuvée.

For food pairings, Cuvée Maderka Pušipel Sur Lie shines with dishes that share its subtlety and texture. Try it with freshwater fish—think lightly grilled trout—or local specialities such as Štrukli, a baked cheese pastry from the region. Its freshness will also complement creamy risottos, shellfish, or charcuterie platters featuring mild cheeses. As a nod to regional tradition, it’s a sublime match for roast poultry with herbs or a simple vegetable terrine.

To enjoy all the layers this wine has to offer, serve it lightly chilled, ideally at 10-12°C. This temperature accentuates its aromatic complexity while maintaining its lively structure on the palate. If possible, open the bottle ten minutes before serving to allow its subtle leesy character to unfurl.